Blue Nile Falls (Tis Isat) ~ Ethiopia travel pictures

Alata Bridge (Portuguese Bridge) route to Blue Nile Falls starts here

We had come by van with a driver and guide south from Bahir Dar to the village near the park gate, where we bought our tickets. (Local guides are available here).

From the parking area, we walked to this bridge, called the 'Portuguese Bridge' locally (it was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century) but correctly named 'Alata Bridge'.

Along the gravel highway from Bahir Dar to this bridge, we met a steady stream of men, women, children, some herding scampering goats, a few cows and donkeys all walking towards Bahir Dar for the Saturday market. Some women carried open umbrellas to ward off the sun. From time to time, we had so wait until a reluctant cow would be switched and prodded off the road ahead. This photo shows the (typically) rocky landscape and scant, muddy waters.

Up the trail to Blue Nile Falls lookout

It takes about 30-45 minutes of fairly steady walking to up the trail to where you can view the Blue Nile Falls cascading over the 400-metre (1,312-foot) wide lip to drop 45 metres (9148 feet) to the valley below, creating a spray the locals called Tis Isat (Smoke of Fire).

In this photo, the various livestock -- goats, donkeys, cattle -- are absent. I chose not to stand and take pictures, and risk getting stepped on, especially by one of the large bulls!

Even allowing for the high altitude, it's not too difficult a walk. Young children attached themselves to us as guides, and took the opportunity to practice their English, which they said they learned from talking to tourists and each other.

The Blue Nile Falls First Look

My first look at the Blue Nile Falls (they are the thin line in the middle of the photo), is as close to traveller's heartbreak as I have ever come, and ever hope to get. I had long anticipated seeing these majestic Smoking Waters cascading into an ecosystem all their own at the base. And then after a long, hot and dusty climb, we round the curve in the path to look out upon this scene.

Blue Nile Falls

When I visited Tis Isat, it was a mere trickle of its former self. As one familiar with large waterfalls (Iguazu, in Argentina and Niagara Falls), in Canada, I should have noted as I approached, the lack of the sound of thundering waters and the usual clouds of mist.

Update January 2007 :: "There is no flooding in our area [recent heavy rains in highlands - Ed.]. In fact, there has been no rain for some time. Lake Tana is higher than normal and on occasion you can even get spectacular views of the Blue Nile Falls (unlike when we went). There has been quite a bit of flooding in the south but am not aware of any concerns in this area." . . . Bob Black (see Travel in Ethiopia story)

Young guides at Blue Nile Falls

Though you may be many miles from any town, you are never alone; there's always someone around, perhaps ready to act as a guide, though most likely just going about their business.

This young lady didn't speak to us, but, indicative of her extensive experience with visitors, she quietly walked towards the edge of the viewing area, and stationed herself, crook in hand, for a photo.

And yes, visitors generally offer a tip. In this photo, you can see the pool at the base of the falls; another falls cascades still lower from the pool. Look for a guide to show you the lower trails into the valley, accessed from a lower route.

Good-bye, Habitat -- Hello, Power supply

One of my guidebooks, printed in 2003, showed a photo of the falls, a magnificent vista cascading into a bird watcher's paradise, and gardener's dreamscape.

The Lonely Planet guidebook did not include a photo, and though the writer mentioned that the river was a key player in a hydroelctric project, there was no real indication that the Falls was, basically, gone.

In 1998, our own guide told us, the dam diverted water to a large reservoir, that, in this photo, is just out of view to the left. He mentioned that while Ethiopia needed the power, Egypt was a little miffed by the whole affair. These days, (2008), the falls may be in full flow, so I guess I will have to make another trip!

Blue Niles Falls guides

These Ethiopian boys attached themselves to our group, and accompanied us most of the way (here, heading back down the trail to the car park at Portuguese Bridge). They spoke clear, unaccented English, crediting the Falls' many English speaking visitors for their self taught second language. Polite and curious, they asked many questions and offered advice.

typical Ethiopian house outside Bahir Dar

This style of house is typical of many homes in Ethiopian Highlands. In some villages, the yards of the houses were enclosed by extensive stone fences up to three feet high.

I noticed this particularly on the route from the Bahir Dar airport to Lake Tana. Keep an eye out for some really lovely, elaborate stone walls. I never did get a picture. In the evenings, we could see women cooking over charcoal fires in the front yards.

Ethiopian Children near their Bahir Dar home

This girl and her brother greet visitors near their tukul, the traditonal home Ethiopian home, with cone-shaped roof made from straw.

The girl is wearing a serape-style woven shawl typical of the area.
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