Lake District Park ~ PN Vicente Perez Rosales

Osorno Ski Hill

Volcano Osorno's perfect peak is a magnet for skiers and sightseers. At Ensenada, just inside the park boundary, the annual rainfall is about 2500 mm (98 inches). The peaks receive closer to 4000 mm (157 inches), most of it snow. Since it rains about 200 days a year in this area, the peaks are visible only a third of the time.

Even on clear days, morning mists obscure the tops, often until midmorning. If you can, time your visit accordingly for the best views. The Teski ski centre is a new one here as of 2000. The first one, c1940, closed after the earthquake in 1960. In the interim, only the chair lift was operating.

Lake Llanquihue view from Osorno ski hill

A wide gravel road leads up Osorno to the ski area and viewpoint, and posed no problem for a small car (no 4WD needed in the late spring). That's Calbuco Volcano in the background, Lago Llanquihue below, and to the left, just out of view, is the Petrohue River and waterfalls, then Lago Todos Los Santos.

Long-ago lava flows from Osorno severed part of Lago Llanquihue to make the Petrohue River and Lagos Todos Los Santos. Step on the loose volcanic gravel in the foreground: It feels like ball bearings made into a mousse -- more air than rock.

A Slag Heap of Lava

Lava 'gravel' covers the landscape here, about 50 feet down from the chalet area, no flowers or grasses in sight. Several of these large rocky lumps dotted the open areas off the roadway. This 626,000-acre park, established in 1926, was Chile's first. There are now 32 national parks alone that account for about 10 percent of Chile's land area, as well as national reserves, national monuments and private tourism areas. The parks are handled by Conaf (in Spanish).

Little Lava Lizard at Osorno

This flash of greenish-black caught my eye as it scurried in and out of the crevices of the large lava pile above.

My guide told of an incident some years earlier on this same mountain road we were on, before it had been widened. He was heading down from the top, hugging the outer edge to make room for the uphill traffic when the outside tires sunk in the soft gravel. His car went rolling over and down the slopes. Luckily, he was not seriously injured, but had enough of a scare that, since then, he's always travelled by cab.

Trail to Petrohue Waterfalls

Safely down from Osorno's heights, we headed for the Saltos de Petrohue -- the waterfalls on the Petrohue River. The path to the falls wandered through Scotch Broom in bloom, and several arrayan trees, a hardwood from the myrtle family, with bark that rubs off like orange sawdust.

These trees hearken back to the Gondwannic forest, when Australia, New Zealand and Antarctica were still part of South America. Look for them to be in white, lemon-scented bloom in mid to late summer.

Mountain Stream Saltos Trail

As you leave the Conaf information post at the entrance to the Saltos trail, you pass this quintessential stream, in parts clear and in others, a deep aqua that's a harbinger of the sights to come.

The waterfalls are about 6 kms (4 miles) from the town of Petrohue, which is one terminus of the Lakes Crossing route to Bariloche, Argentina. The trail into the falls is 370 metres (400 yards) and takes about 10 minutes each way. There are several other trails leading to the falls; check with the staff.

Osorno Volcano & Saltos de Petrohue

Like travel photos of the Great Wall of China at Badaling, or the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge, this shot is a must-take by all who visit, and shown with almost every story and web page written about this park.

With good reason, I say! This spot, where the Petrohue spills around basalt columns, is one of the world's loveliest views. And my photo, for one, shows to the right, just in the frame (no mean feat, trust me), Cerro La Picada, 1710 metres (5610 feet). Osorno, on the left, is 2660 metres (8727 feet).

Petrohue River

A series of boardwalks and bridges take visitors close to the falls, and the rapids below. Most rafting trips start past this point, and you can see why, though apparently those with experience are willing to try.

The Petrohue is Class III to IV -- intermediate to advanced. I heard several tales about visitors who get too close and fall into the river. Depending on the site, rescue can be difficult.

Green Lagoon, courtesy of Osorno

Heading back from the waterfalls, stop at the parking area and information signpost, where a short trail and stairs lead down to this lagoon, one of several in the park.

The sediment from Osorno's waters apparently appeal to Cryptomonad that turn the water an opaque green colour. A longer trail leads around the lagoon. If you are here at dawn or at dusk, you may see ducks, kingfishers and woodpeckers. In spring and summer (October-March), this spot is a great favourite of birder watchers.

Lago Todos Los Santos

This lake, formed as an offshoot of Lago Llanquihue by a lava flow from Osorno, is the start of the Lakes Crossing (Cruce de Lagos) between Chile and Argentina.

Those awaiting the ferry's arrival this day stroll along its black sand beach. There's a hostel here, and a small restaurant. From Puerto Montt, the crossing takes about 8 hours, starting and ending with a bus ride. In summer, the ferry is at (or over) capacity, so a shoulder season trip is much less crowded.

Hand Knit Sweaters make a great souvenir of Chile

Just at the trail head leading to the Petrohue waterfalls, (beside the Conaf park information office), craft vendors were selling items such as these lovely hand-knit sweaters.

A great buy if it's a chilly day and you've come unprepared. This style of sweater is typical of the southern market wares, such as those at Angelmo in Puerto Montt.

.