Port Hardy BC ~ Vancouver Island

Port Hardy Welcome from Black Bear

The Port Hardy city sign features wooden bears. This real live bear (center) was walking along the embankment across the highway from the sign!

Port Hardy (pop. 5300) is 502 km (312 miles) north of Victoria and 391 km (243 miles) north of Nanaimo, and 238 km (148 miles) north of Campbell River, the major sport fishing destination.

As distances go in Canada, these cities are very close. Most visitors elect to drive, following Highway 19 (the Island Highway), with side trips west from Nanaimo to Port Alberni, Tofino and Ucluelet.

Quatse River RV Park and Camping

Our 'home' in Port Hardy was an RV parked at Sunny Sanctuary Campground (1 mile south of town, off Hwy. 19, near the turn off to B.C. Ferries).

There are nice walking paths along the river, and a warren of entertaining resident rabbits. A number of guests stay here while they wait for the ferry to take them to Prince Rupert. A short walk from the campground leads to this 'wilderness' spot.

Salmon River Estuary at Sayward B.C.

En route to Port Hardy, we stopped near Sayward, some 60 kms (37 miles) north of Campbell River to have a look at the Salmon River Estuary.

There's an extensive board walk with viewing platforms, and a few muddy trails. Keep an eye out for non-bird residents, and whistle a loud tune so wildlife know you are here.

Salmon River Estuary Sayward BC

Sayward is one of B.C.'s older communities, established in the late 1890s near the mouth of the Salmon River where it enters Kelsey Bay.

Stop at the nearby Infocentre to pick up a map. There are good hiking trails in the area. Low-hanging clouds darkened the day, and hid the mountains.

We were the only visitors on this mid-week June afternoon. While being alone in scenic tourism spots is something I relish in other locales, I'd rather have lots of company here in bear country.

Fort Rupert General Store near Port Hardy B C

This First Nations village is located just a few miles from Port Hardy. This area has a number of totem poles, wall murals and chainsaw carvings.

We arrived too late in the afternoon on our final day in Port Hardy, so we did not have time to take it all in. Driving around the village, we noticed a man carving a totem pole so we stopped to watch.

Fort Rupert Cemetery First Nations B C

West Coast First Nations tribes are renowned for their distinctive wood carvings, and the markers at this cemetery show that members of the Kwakiutl tribe here at Fort Rupert are no exception.

The Kwakiutl are one of the major tribes of the Northwest Coast. For those curious about traditional Kwakiutl recipes see the recipe for fresh salmon.

Painted Totem detail Fort Rupert B C

Weathered wood of this building in Fort Rupert is a canvas for Kwakiutl art.

See this Malaspina University and College page for a description of symbols and techniques.

Storey's Beach near Port Hardy BC  Canada

We stopped at Storey's Beach, just down the road from Fort Rupert, as the sun was setting.

Northern Vancouver Island has a large population of Bald Eagles, and we often saw them soaring overhead.

Highway 19 ends at Port Hardy (at the ferry terminal). Secondary roads and private logging roads access smaller communities.

Vancouver Island Industry ~ Giant logs need giant trucks

Just south of Port Hardy, we turned off the highway onto the logging road that would take us to Winter Harbour and Cape Scott Provincial Park.

At the junction between Winter Harbour and Grant's Bay, we came across this parked logging truck, no driver in sight.

We were surprised to note signs along the route that marked how long reforestation had been going on in this area. Many markers dated back to the 1920s, with regular replantings in the intervening years.

Grant's Bay B.C. west of Port Hardy

This day, I (and my camera) was the wettest I have ever been with all my clothes on! The rainforest really was a 'rain' forest.

It was a Jurassic Park experience, botanically speaking, and a highlight of the trip.

Totally exhiliarating, to stand on the lonesome beach, as winds sweep in from the open Pacific. I had no idea such a fabulous spot existed in Canada!

From the B.C.Parks web site, and I quote:

"Visitors to Cape Scott should be well prepared for adverse weather conditions - all year round. Annual rainfall is between 375 and 500 centimetres [147-196 inches] and prolonged sunny periods are a rarity, even in summer.

"High winds, rain and generally stormy conditions can be expected at any time of the year. There is no best time to visit the park, although mid summer is generally preferred. A storm once blew so hard that it turned the lighthouse here sideways!"

Ronning Gardens north Western Vancouver Island B.C.

Ronning Garden, located 14.5 km (9 miles) west of Holberg, which is 42 kilometers (26 miles) west of Port Hardy.

By the time we had retraced the route from Winter Harbour and Grant's Bay to San Josef Wagon Road near the entrance to Cape Scott, the heavy rain storm, above, had given way to pale sunshine.

Several times, we had rounded a bend in the road to find black bears scooting off into the underbrush or deer scrambling up the mountainside. Though we did pass several cars, most vehicles were trucks, usually with 4WD (4 wheel drive; recommended).

Another look at Ronning Gardens on Vancouver Island B C

Ronning Gardens were built by Norwegian Bernt Ronning, who started the project in 1910 to transform this rainforest homestead into a botanical wonder, filled with exotic shrubs, trees and flowers from around the world that thrive in the west coast climate.

Large monkey puzzle trees, native to southern Chile -- one male, one female -- soared near this 'fallen soldier' covered in moss.

We could hear loud voices in the near distance, and soon encountered a small group who confirmed their noise was to announce their presence to a black bear they had seen in a lower pasture. We all left shortly after. If you can, to plan a trip to the Port Hardy area of Vancouver Island. It's a little off the beaten track, but well worth it!

You may also be interested in these B.C. travel pictures

• Powell River North Sunshine Coast
• Sechelt BC south Sunshine Coast
• Telegraph Cove
• Canada home page