Sunshine Coast BC ~ British Columbia Travel Pictures
BC Touring ~ Ripple Rock, Vancouver Island to Powell River
I came to the Upper Sunshine Coast BC from touring on Vancouver Island, Canada. I drove south from Port Hardy and Telegraph Cove about 287 kms (178 miles) to the ferry terminal at Como to make the crossing to Powell River on the Sunshine Coast; from there, I'd drive south to Sechelt, on the Lower Sunshine Coast. Along the way, I stopped at Seymour Narrows to see where Ripple Rock USED to be! Though the Sunshine Coast is located on the B.C. mainland, it's accessed via boat or air. B.C.Ferries operates regular crossings from Comox to Powell River. The Sunshine Coast is leeward of Vancouver Island mountains that drain the rain from incoming storms, so the area's annual rainfall averages just 104 cm (40 inches); to compare, Cape Scott on northwest Vancouver Island averages 180 cm (71 inches) per year. Coming to B.C.? Get a copy of Fodor's new guide to Whistler, Vancouver, Vancouver Island, Okanagan BC
for maps and info, and find Powell River hotels and Lund BC Hotels.
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Seymour Narrows Ripple Rock About 14.5km (9 miles) north of Campbell River (still 58 km or 36 miles north of Comox), we stopped at the Seymour Narrows lookout. It's been nearly 50 years since Ripple Rock, an infamous shipping hazard in this channel, was blown away. The strong currents still evident here are enough of a hazard on their own. The Campbell River Museum has an account of the Ripple Rock explosion. |
Comox ferry For current information, pick up a print ferry schedule at your first opportunity. With just four ferry crossings a day from Comox to Powell River, we didn't have much time at Seymour Narrows. Times and fares are subject to change, so check with B.C. Ferries. The ferry dock is actually 13km (8 miles) north of Comox, so watch for highway signs. We were aiming to make the 80 minute crossing in mid-afternoon. (Find hotels in Comox here). |
Forbidden Plateau As the ferry left the Comox dock, I tired to get a photo of Forbidden Plateau, in Strathcona Provincial Park, about 250,000 hectares -- nearly a thousand square miles -- most of it wilderness park. The Golden Hinde (at 2,200 meters or 7218 feet, the highest point on Vancouver Island ) is near the centre of the park. I thought a large, flattened mountain with a sun-reflecting glacier 'saddle' (just out of view to the right in this photo) might be Forbidden Plateau. |
Powell River The day was calm and sunny, and I spent most of the crossing on an outside deck, hoping to see whales or dolphins. No luck. Whales elude me (see Telegraph Cove). We drove through neatly-laid grid of the old residential section of Powell River that's now designated a National Historic District. The Powell River area was once one of the largest lumber producing areas, and site of the area's first pulp and paper mill. The surviving paper mill can be seen from the ferry. |
Heading to Lund We were heading 27 km (17 miles) north of Powell River, to the end of Hwy. 101 (Sunshine Coast Highway) and the historic village of Lund. Northeast from Lund is the Desolation Sound [Provincial] Marine Park, just over 20,000 acres of shore, land and water. This entire area is full of seriously scenic wilderness. We had picked up brochures in Powell River warning about cougar, black bear and grizzly bear encounters. But for fearless optimists, there's also a Powell River Canoe Route map and a topographic Duck Lake/Mud Lake trail map. |
Savary Island A water taxi heads out from Lund, taking day trippers across 6 km (4 miles) to Savary Island's (pop.100) sandy beaches and warm waters. You can board water taxis from the marina in front of the Lund hotel. At the time I was there, the return trip per person was $15 CAD, but that was before gas costs skyrocketed. |
Nancy's Bakery Lund Nancy's is a Lund institution, renowned for breads, blackberry sticky buns and cinnamon buns. There's an outdoor patio area with tables . This picture shows the new bakery, about 300 metres (330 yards) from the original site. Check out Flo's Starboard Café, too, on the other side of the marina, a short walk from here. |
Lund Marina Although road trippers may not know this 'off the beaten track' area well, it's a great favourite with yachties. These boats (like the low white vessel, photo center) are chartered from Vancouver by boaters from eastern Canada and the eastern U.S. One captain told me that each year, several families leave their own boats at home in Ontario, fly to Vancouver, rent several boats, and cruise the west coast for most of the month. |
Helicopter transit For a spot that's a tad remote, there's a number of ways to get to Lund.
There's daily service via Malaspina Coach direct from Vancouver airport. Car and ferry via Hwy. 101. Fly a half-hour to Powell River (scheduled or charter) on Pacific Coastal Airlines. Come by boat -- you're on your own, here -- or helicopter -- Airspan Helicopters are but one operation. |
Lund Hotel
I stayed at the historic Lund Hotel. The old section of the hotel (c1905) was rebuilt following a fire, and refurbished in 1999 (see all Lund BC Hotels).
The lobby more than met my lifetime pine paneling needs. The halls in the old section were just over a yard wide. My front-facing room was comfortably roomy, with access to the balcony. Lund is apparently popular with motorcyclists, especiially around 6 p.m., when many roared up and down the little hill street to the marina. Dinner was good, the service and upscale menu befitting the yachting clientele. |
Church at Sliammon On the highway from Powell River north to Lund, we found the sign marking the road leading into the Coast Salish village of Sliammon, settled early in the 20th century. The village church looks out over Georgia Strait. In late afternoon, there was no one about. My guidebook mentioned that cultural tours are available. |
Saltery Bay Ferry This is what the 11:30 a.m. Wednesday ferry to Earl's Cove -- the Saltery Bay ferry -- looks like five minutes after its scheduled departure, and you are not on it. Pretty, isn't it? So picturesque. This is the view you are sure to have should you misjudge travel time on the 34 km (22 mile) drive south from Powell River AND MISS THE FERRY! Since on Wednesdays, the midday sailings are replaced by dangerous cargo sailings, the next passenger ferry wouldn't leave for another four hours. We headed back to Powell River, where we had a lovely, leisurely lunch and browsed the shops. ____________
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You may be interested to know that Sunshine Coast's Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park, with more than 60 km (37 miles) of shoreline, several islands, numerous small bays and coves, is an affordable sailing / water holiday.
Or you can kayak -- Terracentric Coastal Adventures rents sea kayaks. The warm waters of the park are good for swimming or scuba diving, and you can camp at SunLund campground in Lund. See the website for details.
There are two new restaurants in the Upper Sunshine coast. One's in Powell River. It's called The Alchemist: A Journey Home. It's owned by a former Powell River resident Erin Hotston and her chef partner Francois Lessard. They chose the name to symbolize Erin’s return to her hometown after many years of travelling abroad.
see www.alchemistrestaurant.com
The other new restaurant is up the road in Lund, overlooking the Lund Harbour, is The Boardwalk Restaurant. It's owned by Australians Ian Thomason and Catherine Burton, who moved to Lund on a whim.
See http://www.theboardwalkrestaurant.ca